Braga beyond the Churches, a City Guide
I’ve always had a little something for places that are off the radar. It can be that there’s another place close by that is in the spotlight or that they are harder to get to, to understand or navigate. Or maybe because they’re associated with such a strong image that you can’t imagine finding something else there.
Located in the north of Portugal, Braga is one of them. I’ve had people here in Lisbon asking me why I even chose to go all the way up to write about it in the first place. I had heard about Braga since I moved to Portugal but vaguely, and always in religious terms. I got a sudden interest for it and suddenly all I cared for, besides discovering its churches, was to find out about all the other, non-religious things you could see and do in this city.
That being said, I strongly advise anyone heading there to visit Bom Jesus Sanctuary to begin with. This, and all the things Braga offers in terms of religious heritage is well-worth your time. I would even go as far as to advise guided visits, whenever possible. It’s a personal taste of mine as I feel that very often, visiting monuments need a bit of context not to become overwhelming. Once you’ve covered Braga historical heritage, what’s left to do? Drink tea in a philanthropist’s garden or coffee in a historic café, sunbathe at the top of a Unesco-listed sanctuary or get a taste of Portuguese creative cuisine crafted by a young, promising chef.
The Café
People have been coming in A Brasileira here in Braga since 1907 and I would advise for you to go at breakfast. A coffee, it is, with some cakes or torradas (toasts with plenty of butter) and the best place to watch the time go by, in a cinema-like decor.
A Brasileira, Largo do Barão de São Martinho 17, 4700-328 Braga
The Gardens
I could probably write an article solely dedicated to Braga’s gardens but after careful consideration, I’ve decided otherwise. Here I will only name three of them that anyone heading to Braga should really visit: Biscainho’s museum splendid gardens, Centésima Pagina bookshop’s and Bom Jesus Sanctuarys’. All very different, lovely and worthy of a stroll.
Tea-Time
Hiding between sculptures and roses of Nogueira da Silva museum’s garden is this little tea house. The collection features decorative objects collected by the philanthropist Nogueira da Silva but you can also get to the excellent teas in the garden straight away without paying the museum’s entrance.
Jardim do Chá, dans les parc du Musée Nogueiro da Silva, Avenida Central, 61
The Japanese Counter
Of course, this Japanese mini-restaurant shouldn’t be your first stop in Braga. But since you’ve made it here and if you need a bit of a break from traditional food, this one should be your dinner destination. Eyes closed, mouth wide open!
Michizaki, R. Dom Frei Caetano Brandão 169, 4700-031 Braga, +351 253086587
The River Beach
If the air is too hot and the ocean too far, head to the local beach… by the river. I didn’t manage to go while I was in Braga but I can only trust the Braga-born chef who told me to go. Keep it a secret so this little refreshing spot doesn’t turn into a public pool.
Praia Fluvial de Cavadinho, 4710-646 Crespos.
The Meat
I haven’t had the chance to go but I’ve been told this is the place for meat, particularly beef. Local, no-frills and it’s high on my list of places to get to when I visit Braga again.
Miranda Sabores do Barroso, R. 13 de Maio 30, Santana de Vimieiro, +351253 672 293
A Little Further
Braga can be tiring, if you’re so inclined as to visit it all - and you definitely should go as far as climbing the flights of stairs all the way to Bom Jesus sanctuary. It really is mesmerising. A nice place to get some quiet time after is this simple and affordable Quinta in the middle of nature, less than an hour away from Braga.
Quinta da Raposinho, Rua José Machado - S. Nicolau, 4860-143 Cabeceiras de Basto
