A postcard to/from roaring Naples
Some places are extremely powerful. They urge me to grab a pen and a paper, start a sentence without any idea of its ending and just write, write and write more. Why, you may ask? As I’m sitting now, I’m trying to figure it out. I guess what they all have in common is an energy I feel very strongly about. Naples is no exception. It’s simply one of these places that you either love or hate, sometimes for the exact same reasons.
Let’s just start by stating that Naples is not an easy place to fall in love with - quite the opposite actually. Naples doesn’t just sit there, waiting for locals and tourists to venture through its streets, eating whatever their eyes spot first, feasting on art, architecture and pizza altogether. It’s often compared to Marseille, another southern city. And that’s because, whilst on a stroll, you’ll probably find yourself in the middle of cars racing through the narrow streets, a constant horns soundtrack playing from dawn to dusk. A city where pollution and fried food volutes come together, sometimes covered by a gentle sea breeze. It’s a place where dust and light chase each other, grandiose palazzos and traditional neighbourhoods. One can feel really drained from Naples, yet it’s reviving in any possible way. I’ve come to realise why I loved this city and it has to do with the fact that Naples is not trying to be anything other than itself. It’s not finding excuses, it’s not trying to look more standard, more global, more Instagrammy. It’s a city that doesn’t compromise and that’s a good enough a reason to go… And to love it as much as I did, maybe. This and tons of delicious food listed on the mini food guide below:
Mimi Alla Ferrovia
Rococo features, very tasty Neapolitan classics (like the Neapolitan version of vongole!) and waiters dressed the old-fashioned way have made this place a favourite among locals. Maybe a bit pricier than the average but definitely worth it - there are thick, white tablecloths and matching napkins after all.
La Bufala
The kind of shop you would want to be locked in for hours. Or at least I know I would! This local deli is filled with great cheeses, delicious bresaola, all things you might consider buying for a picnic in Procida, Ischia or… at the airport if you’re running out of time. You can also fill your suitcase with them all.
Pasticceria Capriccio di Capparelli
Locals (who know it best, always) will tell you the perfect Neapolitan baba (a brioche soaked in a rum syrup) is neither too dry, neither too moist. And this family-owned pastry shop serves the best in town. It has two branches but the one I’m listing here (Via Carbonara 39) is a bit off-the-grid, more local and is venturing out for.
La Taverna di Santa Chiara
A very small, no-frills neighbourhood joint so small you might end up walking past it without noticing. Step back, it’s worth it. Nothing grand about the place itself but that’s what we’re for, very good, simple, Napolitan food. Price-wise, it’s so cheap you’ll be tempted to order twice. Please don’t be stupid like me, do it. Booking is a must.
Sorbillo
Including Sorbillo in the list was not relevant as it’s listed in all the guides. So let me put it another way. YES the queue is impossible and sadly, YES the pizza is worth queuing for. Ditto for Michele. Good news though: alternatives to these two exist. If you’re not patient but still in the mood for pizza, head to Pellone, Pizzeria del Popolo, Concetti ai Tre Santi or Taverna Luciana. For fried pizza, get to Donna Fernanda, Masardona or D’e Figliole.
Spazio Nea
You can not eat at Spazio Nea but cocktails on the stairs overlooking Piazza Bellini largely make up for it. If you’re more in the music & drink mood, head to Vesuvius Soul Records, a record shop that turns bar when the sun goes down, with a DJ often playing his tunes. The little terrace opposite calls for short drinks and long conversations.
